Tree Maintenance

Watering: Newly planted tree needs watering on a regular basis. For the first week after planting, lightly water the tree daily. The second week, water every other day; then, taper off to once a week. Once the tree is well established, water only during times of drought or mid-summer heat. A good soaking is better than a few casual sprinklings. One way to accomplish this is to punch a couple of holes in the bottom of two or three plastic gallon milk jugs and fill with water. Place these around the tree about two feet from the trunk, or use a soil soaker garden hose attachment.

Mulching: A layer of mulch slows water from evaporating out of the soil. Most organic materials—leaves, bark, wood chips—are good, and compost is excellent. Spread it no thicker than three to four inches and do not pile it up against the tree trunk.

Pruning: After a couple of years, a transplanted tree will have grown enough to consider pruning. Remove:

• Dead or dying branches (these invite attack by insects and disease)
• Crossed branches (cut off the one that has the least structural benefit to the tree’s crown)
• Branches that form a poor union, generally a too tightly angled “V” (these branches are likely to break off as the tree grows)
• The best time to prune is at the end of winter, just before the growing season.
• Injury: Weed whackers are especially dangerous to newly planted trees. It’s best to hand weed around young trees.

Conserving Trees During Construction: A tree’s roots are its most critical part. Temperate climate trees have the best chance of surviving construction activity in the fall and winter, when they are nearly dormant above ground, but active below. More root growth takes place during this time of the year than in spring and summer when growth is directed toward the crown. Builders should take extra care when working around trees during warm weather periods.

To help trees survive construction activity:

• Avoid changing the grade near a tree. Grading increases erosion, removes rich topsoil, and may damage roots that are typically concentrated in the uppermost 18-36 inches of soil.
• Avoid compacting the soil near a tree by driving construction equipment on it, storing heavy materials on it, or piling up fill dirt.
• Avoid contamination from cement mixes, paint, asphalt, and other materials.
• Avoid digging utility trenches within the tree’s root zone
• Avoid damaging the trunk and limbs with cranes

The best way to address these concerns is to erect protective fencing around the tree during construction. An urban forester or landscape architect can help with special techniques such as utility tunnels, dry wells, and retaining walls.

Sensitive species

• Some trees have a particularly hard time surviving root disturbances, including soil compaction as well as physical injuries. These species include dogwood, sassafras, tupelo, white oak, northern pin oak, black oak, cherry, and most nut trees.
• Green ash are slow to recover from wounds at the base of the trunk, and northern red oak can become diseased from the slightest wound to the roots or trunk.
• Pine trees are especially susceptible to wind. If they are left newly isolated after surrounding land is cleared, their tall, narrow trunks can snap in half during storms. As a rule, pines are best preserved in groupings.